Laura Biagiotti Fall Winter 12.13 Fashion, a mirror of the times, reflects a new identity: the individual. The inspiration for this collection is the festive variety of the clothes worn at the court of the gorgeous Byzantine empress Theodora. Geometric touches and restyled classics float under an Oriental light, with embroidered bands and ornaments to dress the ceremony of life. An abstract and almost metaphysical regality can be seen in details that accentuate the figure, such as yokes that transform into romantic ruffles. Gems, stones and metal studs form embellishments that resemble mosaic floors on magnificent tunics made of cashmere and fabric.
Polished gold, brown with bronze reflections, saffron orange, purple, green and lapis blue blend on menswear-style fabrics or on pleated silks that are luxuriously and sensuously draped. The nobility of Laura white is even more sublime in beautiful cashmere knits: this precious yarn that is too often cheapened in shabby items now reacquires its true elegance through Byzantine embroidery with iridescent stones. Floral motifs and decorative trims, cable-stitching and diamond shapes embroidered on dresses, sweaters and jackets reveal the intrinsic quality of the art of Italian craftsmanship.
Masculine and feminine looks share the spotlight in an intriguing exchange that represents a new era of fashion. Fabric, not form, is the basis for the menswear look. Classic Prince of Wales check and herringbone patterns with a beautiful sheen and the glimmer of Lurex threads are used for sleek outfits such as the long pleated chiffon dress. The silhouette is always emphasized by cuts and details that accentuate the figure: flowing fabrics, pleated panels that ripple sensuously, and calf-length hems that draw attention to the legs.
The Italian DNA of the Laura Biagiotti brand and its unbreakable bond with art and culture are reflected in prints that reproduce the floor of Saint Mark’s Basilica in Venice, with its fascinating marble in geometric motifs that become the new ideograms for the modern evolution of the long pleated silk dress.
Silhouettes pay homage to Theodora-style draping and layering: the iconic piece is the cape-jacket in double-face cloth with fur inserts or in ribbed cashmere. Panels overlap in wraparound styles, such as in the Mikado silk wrap dress or the flannel wraparound skirt. Pleated and intarsia panels define the new jacket, bustier top, and sheathe.
Biagiotti’s winter cashmere reflects the brand’s flair for knitwear and features new combinations with fabric. Laura, who the New York Times called the Queen of Cashmere, embellishes cable-stitching and shaker knit ribbing with strips of velvet or bands of lace, but also with panels of astrakhan and fur. Imperial collars made of cashmere or fur are the regal and very feminine antidote to the bitter cold.
Details emphasize collection themes: metal studs and stones decorate bags, ranging from the shoulder bag to the tote, with patterns that reproduce the geometric motifs of mosaic floors. Pony triumphs in clutches and footwear, including the boot with logo and the lace-up bootie. Wraparound sunglasses, which are the best-sellers of the brand, create a luxurious filter through mirrored lenses. Bronze medallions are set in belt buckles and neo-Byzantine ornaments with agate and intertwined chains are turned into bracelets and rings. Tights, an essential element completing this style, have cable-stitch and menswear patterns or feature opaque and sheer contrasts.